Kagawa: In the Land of Udon and Tanuki

It’s spring break time here in Japan, and I decided to take a short trip to Kagawa, Japan’s smallest prefecture.  I had visited once before, but that was before the airing of Udon no Kuni no Kiniro Kemari – one of my favorite anime of 2016 and as good an advertisement for Kagawa as any destination could ever desire.

I’m not normally huge on anime tourism but I do love that series, and while Kagawa seems far away, in fact one can get to Takamatsu by ferry from Kobe for a ridiculously low ¥2000 (which seems almost too cheap for a 4-hour sea voyage).  It’s a very nice ferry too – plenty of lounge seating, tatami sleeping areas, even an “udon corner” and an arcade.  The corner was where they were selling some Udon no Kuni tie-in merchandise (which I would also see later in Takamatsu).  Also, friend of LiA Jake Jung, ace translator for Sentai Filmworks, is a Kagawa resident and kindly offered to play tour guide for the day.

I’ll be here tomorrow too, and headed to Shodoshima to see a few more of the places from the anime. Among the highlights today were Yashima, the flat-top mountain which features prominently in the anime.  The temple where Fukuyama Jun’s priest character works is Yashimaji, the “tanuki shrine” is here, and the reproduction of an Iya Valley rope bridge that so memorably saw a Souta panic attack is in the architectural museum Shikoku-mura.  Back in town we stopped to check out the famous red lighthouse, and I went back myself to see it lit up at night (when it’s even more impressive).

Not to forget food, Jake took me for udon at a quite famous and very beautiful old udon restaurant, Yamada.  And for dinner, to keep in in the Udon no Kuni theme I was to the famous Takamatsu “chicken on the bone” restaurant Ikkoka that featured so prominently in the anime (chicken was indeed fantastic).  I wanted to hit the modern art onsen too, but just ran out of time…

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3 comments

  1. M

    When I first saw the picture of the bridge, I thought it was the real deal. Did you walk across the vine bridge? Are the restaurants Ikkoka & Yamada in Takamatsu? Maybe I should give it a try when I am there.

    I did not know there is a direct ferry to Kobe. The highway bus costs ¥3700 and the train costs more than that. I need to get in to Kobe before 9am. What is the name of the ferry company?

  2. Jumbo Ferry (complete with their own theme song). An incredible value at 1990 Yen.

    I did walk across the vine bridge and honestly, it was no big deal if you’re not afraid of heights like Souta. If you go to the Iya Valley (a couple of hours away) you can cross a real one than passes hundreds of feed above a gorge, and I guess I might feel differently there.

    The restaurants are indeed in Takamatsu. The udon place is near Yashima and the chicken place right downtown (but be prepared to wait there).

  3. M

    I will be taking the redeye sailing at an extra cost of ¥300. This will help kill two birds with one stone: accommodation problem solved and it will get me into Kobe early enough for a whole day to take in the sights (will need your opinion on this after I read up about it).

    I have been to and walked across the Kazurabashi at Nishi-Iya. This fall I shall attempt to visit the Niju Kazurabashi at Oku-Iya using only public transport. I have not watched Udon no Kuni no Kiniro Kemari yet and will do so this comment.

    A wait for the honetsuki dori will not be a problem as I will have time to kill before the ferry sails.

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