Home is Where the Heart Is: Back to Japan

As you may have surmised from the various allusions I’ve made of late, big change has come into my life.  After three years or so, I’ve managed to make my way back to Japan.  This place never left my mind for a single day – literally – since I left in 2015.  The past several weeks have been a whirlwind of insanity as I’ve attended to the seemingly endless logistical challenges involved on both sides of a move like this, but as of tonight I’m settled in my apartment and it seemed like the right time to make it official.

I gave up quite a bit to come back – a good job, close proximity to my family, security generally.  People often ask me why I love Japan so much that I would do something like that, and truthfully, I have a hard time explaining it.  This country is, somehow, the love of my life – it moves me like no other place does.  It’s my iibassho – where my heart feels at home.  And that’s in spite of the fact that I know that as long as I live here, I’ll always be an outsider.  I’m not immune to being bothered by that, but it seems trivial in the big picture for some reason.

When I arrived in Osaka last week, I spent a few moments looking at the map in Nakatsu Station on the Midousuji Line, trying to figure out the best way to my hotel with two huge suitcases.  A young lady came along and, in English, asked me if I needed assistance.  She then proceeded to walk me all the way (about 650 meters) to the hotel (I knew that was coming), and even hefted my largest bag up the steps at the station (no elevator).  When I protested, she said she was a rugby player and it was no problem.  That, somehow, is Japan.

This time around, I’m based in Kansai – one of my favorite parts of the country for sure, though I’ll miss my old haunts in Tokyo.  I’m working near Kobe, and living in the city proper – a neighborhood called Kitano that reminds me a lot of Kagurazaka in Tokyo, where I lived (lots of alleys, beautiful buildings, and tiny shops).  Kobe is a city I’d only visited twice very briefly (once for a game at Koushien Stadium, once for a bit of general sightseeing) but it seems a lovely place.  It reminds me a bit of Seattle or San Francisco – hilly, green, perched between the mountains and the sea.  It’s not too big (about 1.7 million people), quite walkable though of course, blessed with great transit (this is Japan after all), and in true Kansai fashion, very friendly and open.  I love it already.

As for the site, rest assured, that will continue and hopefully thrive.  I look forward to being able to incorporate Nihon no Nichijou and travelog posts back into the mix – they were always among my favorites to write – and of course, when it comes to anime and manga I’m a lot closer to the source once more.  There may be some sacrifices – as I get settled into my new job I can’t guarantee there won’t be an impact on series post timeliness and/or length.  And the timing of the move makes a Spring Season Preview pretty much an impossibility, though I will try to at least do a short summary of expectations and such.

As always, my sincere thanks for all your support over the years, and in the future.  I look forward to sharing this experience with you, starting with a few pictures of my new neighborhood and environs.  Stay frosty.

Enzo

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

32 comments

  1. Wow! Congratulations on the move, Enzo — I’m happy for you!

  2. Thanks. It’s a big leap – here’s hoping I stick the landing.

  3. S

    happy for/jealous of you

  4. s

    Okaeri, Enzo! Congrats on coming back to Japan! Your neighborhood looks very lovely. I refuse to stay frosty but I look forward to your travel posts in the future!

  5. m

    It’s your second big leap to the land of the rising sun and I am happy that you had an opportunity to do so. I also look forward to your travelog posts which I had enjoyed reading in the past.

  6. Congratulations on moving back!
    I loved reading your travelogues, and now I’m in Japan myself, after years of planning.
    Let’s both enjoy our time here (even though I’m only on a trip)!

  7. Thanks! Where are you visising?

  8. R

    Huge congrats! I was wondering if you were going back to Tokyo or Kyoto (my favourite city on earth), but Kobe is also a great place, and it’s not too far from Kyoto. The best part of reading your post is that you’ve got a job…!!!! Congratulations, Enzo!

    Please don’t worry about tardiness or anything at all…simply share whatever you feel like sharing at a pace you feel comfortable. Happy for you!

  9. R

    Oh, and you’re also back in time for the cherry blossoms… There’s a Chinese saying (if I don’t misinterpret it) that good things start in spring… Best of luck with lots of joy!

  10. M

    Congratulations on the move back to Japan!

  11. W

    Congratulations on the big move, Enzo! I’m unbelievably jealous; after being in Egypt for a few months now I would kill to see some trees and mountains. Looking forward to more updates and travelogues!

  12. e

    The secret is out at last ;D. Big cheers, best wishes, big hopes. You deserved and earnt your second chance. And the pics are promising :D. Ganbare!
    Also I am rooting for some delicious steak goodness :,) .

  13. Congrats, Enzo; I was wondering when you would make it back.

    Chances are I’ll be moving to live and work in Japan later this year – hopefully around Osaka or Kyoto – and I’m incredibly excited to experience it for myself.

    It’s probably a tired, trite question by this point, but do you have any advice for a newcomer living and working in Japan? I feel like I’ve developed realistic expectations, but I always seem to learn something new by just asking the people who have lived it.

    Again, congrats!

  14. My advice – tell me when you get to Kansai and we’ll get a drink.

    Seriously, I would say to embrace the strange and unknown. Everything being completely different to what I’m used to is one of the great charms if being in Japan for me – every day is a learning experience. Accept that you’ll never be a part of Japanese culture in their eyes no matter how long you stay and how well you speak Japanese, and don’t be frustrated by it. But do learn enough Japanese to at least initiate a conversation with locals – it will carry you a long way. And humility – Japanese will forgive almost anything (especially with foreigners) if one displays humility, and arrogance is one of the greatest sins you can commit here.

    Also, Kansai folk tend to be more cool with gaikokujin than people in most parts of Japan, so you have that going for you.

  15. j

    Congratulations, and good luck in Japan! It’ll be great to read further posts on your travels and, if it’s not too private, about your daily life and your job in Japan.

  16. Huge congrats on the move, Enzo. I visited Japan a few years back and like you, that place gave me the feeling of “home”, especially Kyoto *my favorite city ever*. Still planning myself to live there for a few years, once I know Japanese more fluently. Got to say Osaka is my least favorite city though.

    Anyways, gook luck and have fun with this new life. Ganbarou

  17. What job did you secure? An English teaching job or related one? Good to see you that you found your way back to Japan with a job.

    Personally, while I like to visit Japan, the bit about being forever a foreigner even if you end up speaking fluent Japanese and staying there for the rest of your life is very true. As long as you’re not ethnic Japanese, you are forever treated differently.

    That said, if it is a place where you feel at home, then there’s where you should be.

  18. Everyone has to come to their own decision about how much that fact bothers them. I have no disagreement with anyone who finds it a deal-breaker – it just doesn’t happen to be one for me.

  19. S

    Congrats. I lived in Kobe for 5 months during my studies (near Maya-san) and I definitly get you about feeling «at home» despite the difficulties and being a foreigner.

    Loved the city, a nice balance between good commodity and a moderate population (as long as you’re not near Sannomiya at least). And the proximity with Osaka and Kyoto (and Nara!) is a big plus too.

  20. Only been here a couple of days, but loving it so far. So manageable after Tokyo (transit is great, but much of what one might want to get to is actually walkable), lovely mountain backdrop, nice atmosphere. I haven’t experienced Fukuoka, which seems to be beloved by everyone who gets a chance to live there, but I get why Kobe has a reputation as being so liveable.

  21. S

    Out of curiosity, what made you go back to America three years ago?

  22. Family concerns and the lack of a work visa.

  23. S

    I hope you enjoy your life out there!

  24. Congratulations, Enzo! I am sad for myself, that I won’t get a chance to meet you in person. I totally understand your pull to a geography of the heart, and your ability to follow that speaks well of your open wonderment.

  25. s

    Congratulations! Although I’m very happy where I am–it’s the place where my heart feels at home–I also left a little piece of my heart in Japan, and I miss certain things very much. Best wishes for a smooth transition, and you’ll always have my support!

  26. As always, much appreciated.

  27. A

    Congrats. Enzo! I think you are very brave.

    I wish I could leave my country someday an go to live to California or probably Spain… but I still don’t have the determination….you know it’s a bit scary..

  28. Congratulations, its amazing that its already been 3 years since the last Japan post, time flies.

  29. R

    Lurker delurking–though I posted comments twice or thrice last year. Anyway, I digress. This post really resonated with me because I’ve been thinking about this very thing for the past couple of days. I used to live in Japan three years ago before I went to graduate school here in the US, but even until now I still get hit by this strong indescribable longing to return; like, sure, I’m a fan of Japanese culture; but it’s more than that. When you mentioned “iibasho,” something pinged in my head: yes, yes, that’s precisely it. I still have a couple of years more to go in my studies (I’m completing my doctorate), but I know I’ll find my way back to Japan.

  30. For some of us it gets in the bloodstream, and we’re never the same…

Leave a Comment