I decided to pay another visit to Enoshima on my last day of Spring break. I’ve been fighting a nasty cold but I was able to make the trip thanks to the wonders of Japanese ibuprofen, which contains lots of caffeine and a third ingredient listed online as a “sedative/hypnotic”, and to whose overall efficacy I can enthusiastically attest.
My first visit to Enoshima was, if you recall, blessed with gale-force winds that I quite honestly felt at times might lift me up “Oz” fashion and carry me out to sea. It was a lovely day today (great Fuji views), with light winds, which makes the incident that occurred near the Iwaya sea caves all the more ironic: I set my sumaho down on a staircase railing to put on my jacket and a huge gust kicked up out of nowhere and blew it off, right onto the rocky cliff. I was quite gobsmacked, I can tell you. I dashed down and slipped over the rope fence (always dicey breaking rules in Japan) to search, and found the rubber backing first (uh oh). There were two small pools of water which I would guess covered perhaps 3% of the surface area below the cliff, the rest of which was dry rock. Naturally the battery was in one, the innards of the phone in another. And here, I must give full credit to the fine folks at HTC – I put the thing back together, dried it off, and damned if it doesn’t still work.
I love Enoshima, touristy though it is. It’s just a wacky, surreal place, with larger-than-life myths to go along with the views. And as if it didn’t have enough to recommend it, it’s absolutely chock-a-block with friendly cats of all shapes and sizes (I even saw one which looked just like “Boss”). There was one, in fact, that was famous enough to have his own picture and savvy enough to pose next to it. The place also boasts more raptors than anywhere else I’ve seen – they’re constantly circling overhead, everywhere, squabbling with crows and ravens and dive-bombing the coves. This time around I bought the “Enopass” and went inside the Samuel Cocking Garden, and to the top of the Sea Candle (where Yuki once woke up once after Haru zapped him with his squirt gun). The only thing I was never able to find was the house Yuki and Keito lived in, if it really exists.
Afterwards I stopped at Shirokuma Cafe in Takadanobaba. No, it doesn’t quite have the same charm – it’s on busy Waseda Dori in grimy Takadanobaba and not in a park, for one, and the staff is entirely human for another (though the women do wear scarves on their heads). But it’s still quite a treat to see, filled with memorabilia and art from the series. I ordered – naturally – a caffe mocha, and I’m happy to report that it was excellent. Made with real hand-pulled espresso (not push-button) and not too sweet. They also have desserts and a full menu of Shirokuma-themed hot dishes.
I’m also happy to report that the place was quite busy, despite it being about 5 PM on a Thursday. It was, it must be said, almost all women – very few dudes in there. There were some children and even a couple of obaa-sans. But it certainly supports the notion that this series has been quite a hit with the female audience especially, which is hopefully a good sign for future endeavors.