Kyoto Koyo Diaries – Ohara and Hosen-in

Here’s a few more koyo photos, taken up in Ohara, the little mountain hamlet a half-hour or so by bus from Demachiyanagi Station.  This was actually my third attempt to get there this month, the first two having been thwarted by buses too full to board.  I thought a weekday would alleviate that problem but it was still pretty packed – the heady days of “locals” like me having Kyoto to ourselves are clearly over.

My main reason for heading up there was to visit Hosen-in, a gorgeous little temple I’d actually never been to.  It was originally built (in 1012) as housing for priests from Shōrin’in next door.  Unusually for Kyoto temples they allow photography pretty much everywhere, and while not cheap at ¥800 that does buy you a bowl of genuine matcha and a Japanese sweet to enjoy while overlooking one of their stunning gardens.  The temple also features a 700 year-old pine and blood-stained floorboards (repurposed as ceiling panels) from Fushimi Castle, where 370 defenders committed seppuku.

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9 comments

  1. S

    One of my favourite small temple in lovely Kyoto. It’s like two paintings one framing the oak and one framing the bamboo. I also like Kosanji in the other corner of the city with the “usagi and frog” piece.

    Any anime set in Kyoto you would suggest that shows the city well but also with a very well written story?

  2. Most obviously Uchouten Kazoku (anything Morimi, except PH), which comfortably clears both those bars. Kyoto Kawaramachi Sanjo no Holmes isn’t great, but it does show off the city very well. Tamako Market shows off a very specific part of it well – Demachi, where I live. Inari Konkon Koi Iroha.

    An interesting wild card is Kyousougiga, which is set in a fantasy Kyoto but nevertheless depicts the city lovingly (and is generally brilliant).

    As for Kosanji I haven’t been out there for a couple of years but I understand it got damaged (uprooted trees) pretty badly by a typhoon.

  3. N

    Kyoto was one of our stops when we went on a family vacation to Japan back in 2013, our first time visiting Japan besides having a layover at the airport on the way to somewhere else. We did not visit the places that you chronicled recently, but they look spectacular.

    It’s funny that you mentioned Uchouten Kazoku as I saw ads of it while in the city. I even got to watch the 10th episode while in the hotel. I couldn’t understand it without subtitles and that was one of the shows that I had to catch up with once we returned stateside. I hope that we get to see a 3rd season someday.

  4. If Morimi writes it, I think PAW will adapt it.

  5. R

    Another beauty…and these are places that we didn’t get to visit. This post puts a smile on my face…I wonder how I would be if I were there in person… Great that you were able to get there…third time’s a charm. Thanks for sharing, Enzo.

  6. I enjoy posting. These never get many hits but the few people who read them seem to enjoy them.

  7. R

    And I am one of those few people :).

  8. Thank you for sharing these city-specific anime. I heard of Uchouten Kazoku but certainly don’t have the acumen to know the rest.

    It would be really cool to make an anime map but the amount of work would certainly require some crowd funding!

  9. There are actually some out there if you Google it. There’s the official “Anime 88” pilgrimage map for one, but some private users have put anime tourism maps together too.

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